My Favorite Coleslaw

Here is the coleslaw recipe that goes with yesterday’s barbecued chicken (as well as with burgers, picnics or anywhere else you typically have coleslaw). I have grown less and less fond of an overuse of mayonnaise in my salads. This coleslaw is based on a recipe from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home, which uses sour cream as the base and just a touch of mayonnaise for richness. I find it much lighter and yummier than mayonnaise-based coleslaws.

This recipe is intended to serve 2-4 people, but I always end up making more coleslaw than we can possibly eat. Here’s one idea for what to do with the leftovers. A night or two later, make chicken tacos, using leftover coleslaw in place of the lettuce. If you have leftover barbecued chicken, that would also go well in tacos, or you can poach or roast a chicken breast for them. Add avocado and shredded white cheddar, and you’ve got a very tasty taco.

By the way, the recipe can be doubled or quadrupled, if you’re making coleslaw for a crowd. The original recipe I modified made 9 cups! Just remember that this recipe makes ¼ cup dressing total (3 parts sour cream to 1 part mayonnaise), so adjust accordingly.

Coleslaw

Yields: 2-4 servings

To make the dressing, combine:

• 3 tablespoons sour cream
• 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
• ½ teaspoon dry mustard
• ½ tablespoon sugar
• ½ teaspoon celery seeds
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Whisk to blend. Refrigerate until ready to use, or store up to 3 days.

For the coleslaw, prepare:

• 1 carrot, peeled and grated
• 1 cup cabbage, sliced (I used green cabbage, but a mixture of green and red is also nice.)
• Fresh lemon juice to taste
• Salt and pepper to taste

To easily slice the cabbage in a food processor, use the slicing disk, rather than the grating disk. Core the cabbage and cut it into wedges. Place the wedges horizontally in the feed tube of the food processor and slice. This produces long, thin strips that seem heartier than finely grated cabbage. (However, it seems to work better to grate the carrot with the grating disk, as the sliced carrot will be too thick.) The vegetables can be grated a day ahead and refrigerated.

When you’re ready to serve, toss the cabbage and carrot together in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt and pepper.

I feel that it’s okay to add or substitute any other crunchy vegetables I have in my fridge for the carrot. I have used red onion, romaine lettuce, celery and even zucchini successfully.

Related Articles

• A Down-Home Meal: Barbecued Chicken and Coleslaw (simplycooking.wordpress.com)

How to Make Slaw

Ah, slaw. That staple of picnics and barbecues everywhere. Slaw is a versatile recipe that can go in many different directions depending on what you’re having it with. It can be creamy or tangy. It can be dressed up with other vegetables and herbs. And many avowed salad haters (and cabbage haters) will gladly eat slaw.

When I make slaw, I start out with a basic recipe, which I add to depending on what other fresh vegetables and herbs I have on hand. I have found that crunchy vegetables, like carrots, peppers and red onion, make the best additions. I like to julienne the vegetables so they mix up well with the shredded cabbage.

A creamy dressing is traditional, so that’s what I have provided in the recipe below. But really, any salad dressing will work on slaw. If you want something lighter, substitute a vinaigrette. A tangy honey-mustard vinaigrette works particularly well, or try a sesame dressing for an Asian twist.

Basic Slaw

Yields: 2-4 servings

• 1 sm. head cabbage
• Choice of vegetables and herbs

For the dressing:

• 3 tbsp. mayonnaise
• 1-2 tbsp. prepared mustard or horseradish, or to taste (add more if you like tang)
• ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
• Salt and pepper to taste

Core the cabbage head and shred the cabbage; a food processor will make short work of this chore. Julienne or chiffonade the vegetables and herbs. (Julienne means to slice into thin matchsticks. Chiffonade means to roll up leafy herbs and then slice crosswise, resulting in thin strips.) Toss all of the vegetables and herbs together in a large bowl.

Combine the dressing ingredients and toss with the vegetables until they are well coated. Refrigerate 1 hour before serving.

Pasta Shells with Cabbage and Sausage

This was one of those recipes that didn’t sound so good on paper — I was dubious about the use of cream — but turned out to be absolutely delicious. Yes, it is hearty and wintry and probably not a good dish for July. But it is also quick and easy to make with ingredients that are more than likely already in the larder. The recipe is adapted from Marcella Cucina by Marcella Hazan, a wonderful cookbook for discovering quick, easy, authentically Italian dishes.

I did modify the recipe a bit. Rather than boil the cabbage for 25 minutes, I merely blanched it and finished cooking it with the sausage, so it retained some crunch and freshness. I also used half-and-half instead of heavy cream without any discernible loss of flavor but probably a tad fewer calories. A nicely spiced chicken sausage worked well, too.

Pasta Shells with Cabbage and Sausage

Yields: 4 servings
Time to make: ~30 minutes

What you need:

• 1 sm. head Savoy cabbage
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• ½ onion, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 2 Italian sausage links, skin removed and crumbled
• ¼ cup half-and-half
• grated Parmesan to taste
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1 lb. pasta shells or other chunky pasta shapes

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. Core the cabbage and cut into quarters, discarding any discolored outer leaves.
3. Blanch the cabbage quarters for 1-2 minutes, remove and drain.
4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium.
5. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until it becomes translucent.
6. Add the garlic and sausage, and brown the meat, stirring.
7. Chop the cabbage coarsely and add to the skillet.
8. Stir to mix well.
9. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
10. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in the same water in which you blanched the cabbage.
11. Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet.
12. Stir in the cream and season well.
13. Cook just long enough for the cream to bind everything together and garnish with Parmesan.

This is my entry for Presto Pasta Nights this week.

Simmering: A Technique for Cooking Flavorful Vegetables

There are probably two main ways we all learned how to cook vegetables with liquid: boiling and steaming. But both of these techniques have disadvantages. Boiling vegetables in a lot of water often yields overcooked, mushy results that many of us remember (and hate) from our childhoods. And steaming all too often lets the flavor and moisture escape into the air rather than keeping it in the vegetables.

Lately, I have been simmering vegetables in an attempt to retain moisture and flavor without cooking the vegetables to death, and I’ve loved the results. Simmering is a hybrid of boiling and steaming that takes advantage of the best aspects of both.

Simmering involves cooking vegetables in a smaller amount of liquid than boiling them, and at a lower temperature, enough to keep a gentle simmer going. The pot is covered, trapping the steam and cooking the vegetables in less time so that their vibrant colors are retained.

Liquids other than water can be used to add more flavor. My favorites have been chicken stock, apple cider and orange juice. Flavorings can also be added to the liquid, such as soy sauce, herbs or garlic. Once the vegetables are cooked, if you like, raise the heat, uncover the pan and reduce the cooking liquid to a sauce to retain every bit of flavor.

Here are the basic steps for simmering vegetables:

1. Cut the vegetables into smallish pieces, if necessary, such as cubes.
2. Add the vegetables to the pot with enough liquid just to cover them halfway.
3. Add a pat of butter or a small amount of olive oil, salt and other seasonings as desired.
4. Bring the liquid to a boil.
5. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pot and simmer until the vegetables are just tender (see below for suggested cooking times).
6. If desired, uncover the pot, raise the heat and let the liquid reduce for a sauce.
7. Serve as is or with the cooking liquid, or toss with a vinaigrette, flavored butter or a little lemon juice and fresh herbs.

Not all vegetables lend themselves to this cooking method, but many do. Here are some of my favorites:

• Simmer less than 5 minutes: asparagus, bok choy, corn (off the cob), green beans
• Simmer 5-10 minutes: artichoke hearts, broccoli florets, brussels sprouts, carrots (baby or cut into rounds)
• Simmer 10-15 minutes: cabbage, summer squash, baby zucchini
• Simmer 15-30 minutes: new potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, winter squash

Eat Your Vegetables! Prepping, Blanching and Revitalizing Vegetables

colors in the market, originally uploaded by Zé Eduardo
Sometimes it seems like a lot of work to sneak in those 5 servings of vegetables per day. When I’m trying to throw together a quick weeknight supper, I often don’t want to spend time making side dishes. And I’m not going to eat fresh vegetables for lunch or a snack unless they’re convenient too — I just don’t have the time.

It pays to take a little extra time when I have it, especially when I’m weekend cooking, to prep vegetables so that they’re ready to go during the week. I can quickly turn prepped vegetables into a salad or side dish or add them to a pasta sauce or soup without too much trouble.

Whenever I have the extra time, I always wash, trim, peel (if necessary) and cut up more vegetables than I need for the recipe I’m preparing. Prepped vegetables keep well in the refrigerator wrapped in damp paper towels and stored in a plastic bag. Peeled potatoes, sweet potatoes and carrots can be stored in water, as can pre-snapped green beans. For longer term storage, many vegetables can be blanched briefly and then frozen; just remember to adjust the final cooking time accordingly.

To blanch vegetables, bring several quarts of water to a boil over high heat and season liberally with salt. Boil the vegetable until the color brightens and the vegetable is crisp-tender. This doesn’t take very long — no more than 30 seconds to 1 minute for tender vegetables, up to 5-6 minutes for sturdier vegetables. Save time by blanching several vegetables in the same pot — just cook them one at a time.

All of the following vegetables benefit from blanching:

• artichoke hearts
• asparagus
• bean sprouts
• broccoli florets and trimmed stems
• cabbage leaves
• carrots
• cauliflower florets
• fava beans
• green beans
• new potatoes
• snow and sugar snap peas

Remove the blanched vegetables from the boiling water with a slotted spoon and plunge them immediately into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Let cool for 1 minute, then pat dry with paper towels. They can then be refrigerated or frozen for later use. Blanched vegetables also make great crudites for dipping.

Even if you will be eating cooked vegetables the same day, it is better to let them cool and then revitalize them just before serving than to try to keep them warm and risk overcooking them. The French method of revitalizing blanched, frozen and leftover vegetables is my favorite.

If the vegetables are left over from a previous meal, first rinse them of any flavorings. Heat ½ tablespoon of olive oil or butter over medium per serving. Add the vegetables and stir until warmed through. Season and serve.

Two Salads: Horseradish Slaw & French Potato Salad

I went to a party last week and had the opportunity to bring two dishes. I actually like being asked to bring food to other people’s houses, because it gives me the opportunity to try out recipes on a wider audience as well as to cook for more than two people. This time, I was obliged to provide the vegetarian sides. Because the party was a cook-out, I wanted to bring traditional summer outdoors fare, but with a twist. I am happy to report that both dishes were a big hit, and I actually didn’t make enough, which is sad for the guests but flattering to the cook.

I got the recipe for Horseradish Slaw from Cookthink, so I won’t repeat it here. Please visit that great blog to find it and other wonderful recipes. The host of the party told me later that he ate the little bit that was left over for breakfast the next morning and loved it. He couldn’t identify the zingy ingredient; horseradish plus apple cider vinegar makes for a very interesting slaw. My notes: I substituted red onion for the sweet onion, used bagged, shredded slaw for convenience and upped the proportion of mayonnaise slightly. This recipe definitely elevates coleslaw to a whole new level.

I also brought a French Potato Salad. The original source of the recipe is Cook’s Illustrated The New Best Recipe. While I appreciate potato salad in all its forms, I think this is my favorite version. It relies on vinegar and olive oil for flavor rather than mayonnaise, and it tastes good warm or at room temperature, perfect for cook-outs.

French Potato Salad

Time to make: ~20 minutes
Serves: 4-6

What you need:

• 1 lb. red potatoes (4 medium or 12 small), sliced thinly
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 tbsp. champagne vinegar
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 1 shallot, minced
• 2 tbsp. fresh herbs (I used dill, basil and tarragon), minced
• pepper to taste

1. Place the potatoes in a large pot, add cold water and salt well
2. Bring the water to a boil, covered
3. Skewer the garlic cloves and submerge in the boiling water for 45 seconds; remove, let cool and mince
4. Simmer the potatoes until tender, about 5 minutes
5. Drain, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking water
6. Whisk together the reserved water, garlic, vinegar, oil, shallot, herbs and pepper
7. Drizzle the dressing over the potatoes and toss gently
8. Serve warm or at room temperature

Notes: This salad is very versatile. Optionally, you might add blue cheese, toasted walnuts, capers, sliced cornichons or similar ingredients that catch your fancy.

Sausage & Cabbage Stew

It has finally gotten cold around here — what we consider cold in North Carolina, anyway. When I get home from work on a cold night, all I want is something warming, satisfying and simple. This stew fits the bill. I couldn’t help going back for seconds.

Sausage & Cabbage Stew

Serves: 2
Time to make: ~45 minutes

What you need:

• 1 cup pasta shapes (I used medium shells)
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• ½ onion, chopped
• 2 andouille sausage links, sliced (I used chicken sausage)
• ½ head Savoy cabbage, shredded
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• ½ cup chicken stock
• Parmesan to taste

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil and cook the pasta until almost done
2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a dutch oven over medium
3. Saute the onion until very brown and soft, about 15 minutes
4. Add the sausage and brown a few minutes
5. Add the cabbage and garlic, and let the cabbage wilt a bit
6. Add the stock and the pasta
7. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the pasta is fully cooked and the cabbage is tender
8. Garnish with grated Parmesan

Steamed Vegetables with Sesame Dressing

This Asian-influenced sesame dressing is a light accompaniment for pretty much any vegetable that can be steamed: asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, green beans, snow peas or sugar snap peas. (If you substitute another longer cooking vegetable, remember to adjust the steaming time accordingly.) Serve this as a light starter before a heartier soup or stew. Serves 4.

1. Prepare 2 cups of the vegetable by trimming and/or cutting into equally sized pieces
2. Place a steamer basket over about ½ inch of water in a large, shallow pan and bring to a boil
3. Reduce to a gentle simmer, place the vegetables in the basket and cover
4. Steam until tender and bright green, 4-7 minutes

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing by mixing together:

• ¼ cup soy sauce
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. honey
• 2 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

Pour the dressing over the steamed vegetables and serve.

How to Make the Perfect Stir-Fry

The secrets to a successful stir-fry are organization and preparation, which are also the keys to accomplishing pretty much any complex task. Cooking is a small mirror held up to life (profound, huh?). If you can pull off a good stir-fry, you can probably successfully manage three complex software development projects with deliverables expected in late December, or the equivalent. We’ll see.

Before you even start cooking, you’ll want to get yourself and all of your ingredients organized. When the cooking starts, it goes fast, so you’ll need to have everything ready and at hand. The first thing I do is cook the starch, either rice or noodles, such as Chinese ramen-style noodles or angel hair pasta. The rice will steam and then stay warm while I’m preparing the stir-fry. The noodles will be done fast and then can sit in their pot until I’m ready to mix them in and reheat them.

Second, prepare the protein. I usually use boneless chicken breast for this dish, but turkey, pork, shrimp, scallops, fish or tofu should also work just fine. For 2 people, I use about ¼ pound of protein. Remember, traditional stir-fries are skimpy on the meat and generous with the vegetables. Cube the meat and let sit in a mixture of 1 tbsp. soy sauce, 1 tbsp. sherry and ¼ cup water while you prepare the vegetables.

Choose 2-3 vegetables for the dish, enough to make ½ pound. Keeping it simple keeps both you and the stir-fry from getting overwhelmed. Dice or slice each vegetable into as nearly uniform pieces as you can make them. Arrange the cut vegetables in bowls in order of their cooking time, with the longest cooking vegetables first:

1. Mushrooms: 5-10 minutes, depending on type and thickness
2. Cabbage, spinach, other greens: 4-6 minutes
3. Asparagus, broccoli, carrots, green beans: 3-5 minutes
4. Peppers, snow peas, sugar snap peas, summer squash, zucchini: 2-3 minutes
5. Bean sprouts: less than 1 minute

These are just suggestions. You may want to try other vegetables.

In addition, mince 2 garlic cloves and ½ tbsp. ginger root, and place them in line behind all the vegetables.

Next, prepare the sauce. My base stir-fry sauce is a mixture of ¼ cup chicken stock, 2 tbsp. soy sauce, 1 tsp. cornstarch and 1 tbsp. flavoring, such as a bottled Asian sauce, sake or rice wine, or fermented black beans soaked in sherry. Feel free to experiment. I give a suggested variation at the end of this post.

Finally, get your garnishes together. Chopped nuts, sliced scallions, raw bean sprouts and minced fresh herbs all make good garnishes.

The last step is to prepare a coating for the protein for cooking it. Drain away the marinade and toss the chicken (or whatever you’re using) in a mixture of ½ tbsp. sesame oil, 1 tsp. cornstarch and 1 tsp. flour.

Now you’re ready to assemble the stir-fry:

1. Heat 1 tbsp. peanut oil in a nonstick skillet over high until shimmering
2. Add the protein in a single layer and cook without disturbing until browned
3. Flip each piece and brown the other side in the same manner
4. Remove the cooked protein to a plate
5. If needed, add another ½ tbsp. peanut oil to the pan
6. Add the vegetables in order of their cooking times and stir-fry, keeping the food moving constantly, until tender
7. Add the garlic and ginger, and stir-fry 30 seconds
8. Reduce the heat to medium
9. Return to the protein to the pan and mix in the sauce
10. Stir-fry until the sauce thickens
11. If using noodles, stir them in and heat through
12. Remove from heat, garnish and serve

Sweet Chili-Garlic Stir-Fry Sauce

Serves: 2

Mix together:

• ¼ cup chicken stock
• 2 tbsp. soy sauce
• 1 tbsp. honey
• ½ tbsp. rice wine vinegar
• 1-2 tsp. chili sauce, depending on taste
• 2 tsp. minced garlic
• 1 tsp. cornstarch