Some Old Favorites: Grilling Out on the New Deck

A recent cooking challenge that I haven’t gotten a chance to post about yet was to resurrect some old favorites. I chose backyard barbecue favorites in honor of our new, expanded, gorgeous deck, and to give my husband a chance to cook for a change.

The menu was: grilled turkey burgers, mini baked potatoes and quick pickles. I have posted the turkey burger recipe before. This is the only turkey burger recipe I have found that results in juicy, tasty burgers rather than dried-out hockey pucks. Giving credit where credit is due, the original recipe came from Sara Foster’s Casual Cooking.

That cookbook was also the source for the mini baked potatoes idea. You don’t even need a recipe for these. Just substitute medium-sized Yukon gold potatoes for russets. Poke holes in the top and bake at 400 degrees for 35-40 minutes. Load them up with all your favorite fixings. Despite being so simple, this is a genius idea, because often a full-sized baked potato is just too much.

Finally, the quick pickles came from another Sara Foster book that I’ve been featuring a lot on this blog lately: Sara Foster’s Southern Kitchen. (Expect a full-fledged review very soon.) Even though this was a new recipe I was trying, it qualifies as an old favorite because I’ve been making some variant of these pickles for years. It’s a great way to eat garden cucumbers, and it also works for zucchini.

Here’s my version of a quick recipe for quick pickles. For 1 pound of cucumber slices, combine 2 cups water and 1 cup white wine vinegar. Add 1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus fresh dill, red pepper flakes and/or sliced garlic, as desired. You can also throw in diced red onion, if you like. Let the pickles marinate at least 1 hour. These pickles keep about 1 week in the fridge.

Tried-and-True Mashed Potatoes

I have made mashed potatoes so many times that I have pretty much memorized my recipe. And I can adapt it to whatever I have in my fridge. Mashed potatoes go with just about anything, and almost everyone loves them, so it’s a tried-and-true side dish. I’ll almost always serve them with fish, for instance, like last weekend’s crusted cod.

I usually choose Yukon Gold potatoes. They seem to make the creamiest, tastiest mash. If you haven’t discovered these all-purpose potatoes, they also make great hash browns and oven fries. Give them a try.

I won’t normally buy sour cream or buttermilk just to use them for mashed potatoes, but if I already have it for some other recipe, I find it adds a nice zing to the potatoes. When I don’t have either of those, though, cream, half-and-half or even milk works just fine.

If you want to dress your mashed potatoes up, you can stir in cooked bacon, shredded cheese, fresh herbs, a spoonful of pesto or even chopped, sauteed vegetables. If you boil peeled garlic cloves with the potatoes, you can mash them in too. But I usually just serve mine with butter and cream. They’re absolutely delicious that way.

Mashed Potatoes

Select 1 medium Yukon Gold potato per serving. This may make more than you need, but it’s better to have too much than too little. (Ideas for leftovers will be posted tomorrow.) Peel each potato and cut into rough chunks. Put in a pot, cover with water and add a few pinches of salt. Bring to a boil and let simmer until the potatoes are tender enough to be split by a fork (15-20 minutes).

Drain the cooked potatoes and return them to the pot. Per serving, add ½ tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon cream, milk, buttermilk or sour cream (depending on what you have). So for 4 servings, you’ll need 2 tablespoons butter and ¼ cup of dairy. Mash with a potato masher or fork. Add salt and pepper to taste, and beat with a wooden spoon to the desired creaminess (or push the potatoes through a food mill if you want them absolutely free of lumps).

Buffalo Chicken Strips with Blue Cheese Dip

Football season is upon us. I know because my husband disappears every Sunday afternoon and Monday night, giving me some much-needed alone time.  Ahhh, I love the autumn.

Kidding aside, these buffalo chicken strips are a great recipe find from Sara Foster’s Fresh Every Day, and they go perfectly with football games. You can even grill them at your next tailgate party. I like them because they’re a lot less trouble than wings but deliver the same taste, and they give me an excuse to make blue cheese dip. I would probably dip grasshoppers in blue cheese dip and eat them. (Well, only if they’re deep-fried.)

Buffalo Chicken Strips

Serves 4 to 6

• 4 tablespoons butter, melted
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon hot sauce (Tabasco or Texas Pete)
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1½ pounds)
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• ½  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Chunky Blue Chese Dip (recipe follows or you could substitute leftover Blue Cheese Dressing)
• 2 celery stalks, halved and cut into 3-inch sticks

Preheat a grill or the broiler. Whisk the butter, oil, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper and paprika together in a small bowl. Cut the chicken breasts diagonally into ½-inch-wide strips and season with salt and pepper. Place the strips in a shallow dish or bowl, pour half the sauce over them, and toss to coat evenly.

Brush the grill or a baking pan lightly with oil. Place the chicken strips on the grill or in the pan and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side, until cooked through. Serve with the Chunky Blue Cheese Dip, the remaining wing sauce and the celery sticks.

Chunky Blue Cheese Dip

• ¼ cup well-shaken buttermilk
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
• ½ teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• 4 ounces crumbled blue cheese (about 1 cup)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Stir the buttermilk, mayonnaise, vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper together. Stir in the blue cheese. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste and stir in the chives. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 week.

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Finally a Good Turkey Burger

For those of us, who don’t eat beef or are trying to cut back, a good turkey burger is the holy grail. A burger made from ground turkey seems like a good idea, in theory. In practice, though, it is often quite similar to eating a flavorless hockey puck.

The problem with most turkey burgers is fat, or lack of it. Because turkey is a lean meat, it doesn’t have the fattiness of ground beef to keep it moist when being cooked and to make it flavorful on the bun. I’ve seen a lot of tricks to “fatten up” the turkey burger, but so far no recipe I have tried has lived up to its promise.

Until I tried the Cheddar and Tomato-Packed Turkey Burgers in Lynn Rossetto Kasper’s How to Eat Supper. I have been trying a lot of new recipes out of How to Eat Supper since I got the cookbook for Christmas, and while the results have been fairly uneven so far, there have been a few unmistakeable home runs, recipes that I star several times and will keep making for years. I think this will be one of those recipes, as it is the only turkey burger I have ever made that actually tastes like a burger, that remains moist, juicy and full-flavored after cooking.

There are two secrets. One is incorporating cooked onions and tomatoes into the burger patty itself, which adds moistness and flavor. The other is inserting a few cubes of cheddar cheese into the center of the burger, which adds fat. Not too much cheese — as that would overwhelm the burger and probably make a mess during cooking — but just enough to punch up the delicious factor and make you feel like you’re eating a real burger. Plus, there’s the nice surprise of biting into the burger and encountering a gooey pocket of cheese, rather than just melting a cheese slice on top.

I won’t reprint the recipe here, as they have already done so over at Serious Eats, so just head on over there to get a copy. Or pick up How to Eat Supper. This one’s a keeper.

Cooking notes: I recommend making the patties ahead of time and chilling for an hour or so to help them hold together better while cooking. This is not a burger for grilling. It just won’t survive. Pan-fry it instead in a little oil over medium-high to sear, then turn down the heat to medium and cover to finish cooking through. I froze the leftover patties with no problems.

When Your Garden Gives You Zucchini, Make Zucchini Slaw!

Image via Wikipedia

Yes, it’s that time of year, when we start wondering what we’re going to do with all this zucchini (and why did we plant so much in the first place). Here’s a fresh idea I got from Sara Foster’s Fresh Every Day cookbook: zucchini slaw. The main component is zucchini, of course, but this is a fairly adaptable recipe in which you can easily mix up the vegetables to accommodate what you have on hand. I made a few substitutions myself. I enjoyed the sweet-tart flavor of the dressing, which made for a much lighter slaw than the traditional mayonnaise-dressed versions. This slaw would make a great side dish for grilled hamburgers or chicken, a relish for hot dogs or sausages, or pack it in a picnic basket.

Zucchini Slaw

Time to make: ~20 minutes (less if you use a food processor to shred the vegetables)
Yields: 4 servings

• 1 lg. or 2 med. zucchini
• 2 carrots, peeled
• 2 scallions
• 2 sm. sweet or hot peppers — I used an Italian hot yellow pepper, which added a nice subtle heat
• ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
• ¼ cup sugar
• salt and pepper to taste

Trim off the ends of the zucchini and carrots. Cut in half or quarters, depending on the length. Then cut into matchsticks, or julienne using a mandoline, or shred using a food processor. (I used the food processor, which made short work of this task.) Set aside in a large bowl.

Trim the root ends and dark green stalks from the scallions. Cut lengthwise into thin strips and add to the bowl.

Halve the peppers and remove the seeds and stem. Cut into thin strips and add to the bowl. Mix the vegetables well.

In a jar mix the vinegar and sugar. Close tightly and shake vigorously until the sugar is dissolved. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the salad and toss well. Serve immediately after dressing.

How to Poach Salmon in the Slow Cooker

I recently discovered yet another use for my slow cooker: slow-poaching fish like salmon. This method actually doesn’t take that much longer than poaching fish on the stovetop. But it has several advantages over the stovetop method.

For one thing, you don’t have to pay too much attention to the fish while it’s cooking. You just need to check for doneness once you near the end of cooking time. There are no worries about the liquid evaporating away or the temperature being too high. The slow cooker regulates those things for you.

Also, the fish tasted much more flavorful and moist after being cooked in the slow cooker, for exactly those reasons. The temperature remained stable and didn’t get too hot, which is the primary difficulty when poaching. The fish was well submerged in the liquid and didn’t have a chance to dry out.

Finally, this is a really easy way to put fish on the table more often. And since it only takes about an hour — most of that hands-off time — you can easily prepare this recipe on a weeknight.

Slow-poached Salmon

Time to make: ~1 hour
Yields: 4 servings

• 1 cup water
• ½ cup white wine (the same kind you would use for drinking)
• 4 small or 2 large salmon fillets
• 1 slice yellow onion
• 1 slice lemon plus additional lemon slices for serving
• 1 sprig fresh dill
• coarse salt and pepper to taste

Heat the water and wine in the slow cooker on high for 20-30 minutes. Add the fish, onion and lemon slices, dill sprig, and salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and cook 20 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Serve the salmon with additional lemon slices.

Notes: The poached salmon can be served hot or cold. It also makes a good base for salads. I’m sure you can substitute other kinds of fish for the salmon in this recipe. Just vary the cooking time according to the thickness of the fish. My estimate is that it will take about twice as long to cook through in the slow cooker as it would on the stovetop.

Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Bacon and Fried Egg

Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Bacon and Fried Egg

This sandwich makes my husband lose his senses. I only make it for him once a year, on Father’s Day, which I’m sure you’ll understand once you look at the recipe. It’s not exactly the most healthy of breakfasts, but it is delicious!

The recipe comes from Sara Foster’s Casual Cooking, but the recipe is so simple that you’ll probably memorize it after making it once. There are a lot of steps, though, so make as much ahead as you can, and then assemble and grill the sandwiches right before serving.

Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Bacon and Fried Egg

Time to make: ~30 minutes
Yields: 1 sandwich

• 2 slices bacon
• 1 egg
• 2 slices any kind of bread
• butter
• cheddar cheese, sliced

Fry the bacon until crispy. Drain on paper towels and set aside. Wipe out the pan.

Fry the egg in the same pan as the bacon to desired doneness. It is best to leave the yolk a little runny, as it makes the sandwich that much more delicious.

Heat a flat griddle over medium-high. Butter one side of each piece of bread. Assemble the sandwich with the cheese, egg and bacon, buttered sides out. Place the sandwich on the hot griddle and cook until well browned. Flip carefully and cook the other side. Serve right away.

Notes: If you are making several sandwiches, you will have to lower the heat between sandwiches or they will start to burn before the cheese gets melty.

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Impressive Brunch Dish: The Popover Pancake

The popover pancake coming out of the oven.

I made this for Sunday brunch a couple of weeks ago. It is a large pancake cooked in the style of a popover, so it puffs up quite magnificently. It really does look impressive coming out of the oven, but it collapses quickly, so you have to take it straight to the table. (In the photo, it is already starting to collapse.) We ate it in the traditional style, with butter and syrup, but I think it would be excellent topped with fresh berries and maybe a little confectioner’s sugar or whipped cream.

The recipe comes from The Good Egg, a very useful cookbook if you like to cook eggs several times a week, as I do, since it is full of ideas for new things to do with them. The main change I would make to the recipe is to oil the pan before pre-heating it in the oven. This should keep the pancake from sticking. I didn’t do this the first time I made it, and too much pancake was left behind in the pan.

Popover Pancake

Serves: 2
Time to make: ~30 minutes

• 8- or 10-inch cast-iron, oven-proof skillet
• vegetable oil for the pan
• 4 lg. eggs
• ¾ cup milk
• ½ tsp. salt
• ¾ cup flour
• 2 tbsp. butter
• syrup, confectioner’s sugar, whipped cream and/or berries or other fresh fruit to serve

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Coat the skillet with a thin film of oil and put it in the oven to heat for 5 minutes while you make the batter.

Whisk together the eggs, milk and salt. Whisk in the flour and mix until smooth.

Remove the skillet from the oven. Add the butter, swirling it to coat the skillet as it melts. Add the batter and return the skillet to the oven. Bake until puffy and browned, about 20 minutes.

Remove to the table and cut into wedges. Top as desired.

How to Make Croquettes

I have been making croquettes — or little fried cakes — for a long time now. They are always popular, and for me they are comfort food. I usually make them with mashed potatoes or beans. It didn’t occur to me that I could use another vegetable until I found Mark Bittman’s recipe for spinach croquettes. But then I realized that the basic croquette is a versatile recipe that can be adapted quite freely. And since it requires cooked vegetables, it is the perfect vehicle for using up leftovers.

Last night I made croquettes with leftover cooked kale. They were surprisingly good, and even the baby ate three small ones. I would also try making them with other greens, artichoke hearts, broccoli, carrots, corn, peas, sweet potatoes or winter squash.

I served them dry, though, which I would amend for next time. Croquettes really need some kind of sauce to be complete. My husband suggested hollandaise sauce, which would be quite decadent and delicious. But even something as simple as a pesto, salsa or aioli would work. But even without the sauce, they are yummy and very quick to make. If you have time to chill them beforehand, all the better.

Basic Croquettes

Yields: about 6 croquettes

• 2 cups cooked vegetable, either mashed or chopped fine
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• ½ cup cheese, grated
• ¼ cup breadcrumbs, plus more for cooking
• seasonings of your choice: chopped onion, fresh herbs, seasoning mix, etc. plus salt and pepper to taste
• 4 tbsp. oil
• ¼ lb. cooked, flaked fish or ground meat (optional)
• Hollandaise sauce, pesto, salsa, aioli, or other mayonnaise or dipping sauce to serve

Combine the vegetable, eggs, cheese, breadcrumbs and seasonings in a bowl, and mix well. Add the meat, if using — these will make the cakes more of an entree than a side dish. If the cakes aren’t holding together, add more breadcrumbs. If they are too dry, add more beaten egg to bind.

Form the croquettes into cakes. You should have at least 6, or you can make mini-cakes to get more. Lay on a sheet of wax paper on a plate and cover with wax paper. Chill for at least half an hour and up to a day.

Heat the oil over medium-high. Dredge the cakes in breadcrumbs. When the oil is shimmering, fry the cakes until well browned, about 5 minutes per side. You may have to cook the cakes in batches depending on the size of your pan.

Serve with the dipping sauce on the side.

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Emergency Dinner Guests? Pesto Vinaigrette!

Not too long ago, I blogged about the five things I always have in my fridge, freezer and pantry to ensure that I can put together a delicious meal anytime. I didn’t put pesto on that list, but I probably should have. I made a big batch of pesto last summer and froze it in ice cube trays. All throughout the winter I have been making use of that pesto whenever I need to make a quick dinner with a big flavor boost. It’s come in handy for pasta sauces, pizza, soups and risotto.

Now I’ve found another great use for pesto: the pesto vinaigrette.

Last night I unexpectedly had three guests for dinner. As it was the end of the week, I didn’t have a lot of groceries left, but fortunately I had sausage in the freezer and salad greens in the fridge (both on my “five things” list). I pan-fried and sliced the sausage, and tossed it with the greens and the pesto vinaigrette to make a hearty salad that was a big hit. For vegetables, I only had odds and ends: a couple of potatoes, a leek or two, an onion, a few carrots. I chopped them into large pieces, tossed them with olive oil, salt and pepper, and roasted them together at 400 degrees for 45 minutes or so. The roasted vegetables were also delicious drizzled with the pesto vinaigrette. I imagine it would also be tasty as a sauce for grilled chicken or a dressing for sliced tomatoes.

I do like to plan out my menus, but when I have unexpected guests drop in, it really stretches my creativity and leads me to discover new combinations I might not otherwise have tried.

Pesto Vinaigrette

Yields: 8 servings
Time to make: 5 minutes with prepared pesto

Whisk together:

• 4 tbsp. prepared pesto (any flavor)
• 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
• Juice of 1 lemon
• ½ cup olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Adapted from a recipe in Sara Foster’s Casual Cooking.